Weed Identification

Weed Identification

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These are are weeds which grow on the silt of a lake, in India , climate is semi-tropical monsoonal

They dont look native probably exotic species. What are they? Height is probably 1.5 feet.

Lake is this

As Always confused already suggested, the second picture is Xanthium strumarium.
This is a very variable species, and there is a lot of debate around splitting this species into (sub)species. There is a possibility this is plant belongs to one of the few accepted species that wikipedia lists, some even native to Eastern Asia. However, I can't verify this because pictures of these are scarce.

But from my personal field expierence, this plant looks exactly like the X. strumarium and the habitat also matches, so I am comfortable to call this X. strumarium.

As to your first plant: - It will be hard to say without a close-up of the flowers/seeds. - It would be better to ask only one plant per question, so please remove it here and ask a new question.

Weed Identification - Biology

Learning weeds by plant families is one of the best ways to learn identification. Families often have common traits among different species that allow you to group weeds in your mind for easier ID. These family characteristics are also very helpful to begin ID of a new weed species.

Closely related to the plant family way of learning weed ID is the "species-group" concept discussed previously. Many of our most successful weed "species" are in fact a group of closely related, often inter-fertile, species. Learning these weed species-groups will aid you in learning weed ID.

Plant Family ----> Species-Group ----> Species ----> Variants

Cashew Family (Anacardiaceae) Family

poison ivy (Rhus radicans) woody perennial

Composite (Compositae) Family

common cocklebur (Xanthium strumarium) summer annual
dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) perennial
horseweed (Conyza canadensis) summer annual
common sunflower (Helianthus annuus) summer annual

The Thistle Species-Group:
Canada thistle (Circium arvense) perennial
Biennial Thistles:
-bull thistle (Circium vulgare) biennial
-[musk thistle (Carduus nutans) biennial]

The Ragweed Species-Group:
common ragweed (Ambrosia artimeisiifolia) summer annual
giant ragweed (Ambrosia trifida) annual

Dogbane (Apocynaceae) Family

hemp dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum) perennial

Gourd (Curcurbitaceae) Family

[bur cucumber (Sicyos angulatus) summer annual]

Grass (Graminaceae Poaceae) Family

quackgrass (Elytrigia repens ) perennial
wirestem muhly (Muhlenbergia frondosa) perennial
[woolly cupgrass (Eriochloa villosa) summer annual]
barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) summer annual
volunteer corn (Zea mays) summer annual
[field sandbur (Cenchrus incertus) summer annual, biennial]
[foxtail barley (Hordeum jubatum) perennial]

The Panicum Species-Group:
wild proso millet (Panicum miliaceum) summer annual
fall panicum (Panicum dichotomiflorum) summer annual
witchgrass (Panicum capillare) summer annual

The Foxtail Species-Group:
green foxtail (Setaria viridis) summer annual
bristly foxtail (Setaria verticillata) summer annual
giant foxtail (Setaria faberi) summer annual
yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca) summer annual
knotroot foxtail (Setaria geniculata) summer annual

The Crabgrass Species-Group:
large crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) summer annual
smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum) summer annual

The Sorghum Species-Group:
shattercane (Sorghum bicolor) summer annual
johnsongrass (Sorghum halpense) perennial
sorghum-almum (Sorghum almum) summer annual

[The Bromegrass Species-Group]:
downy brome (Bromus tectorum) winter annual, summer annual
smooth brome (Bromus inermis) perennial

Hemp (Cannabaceae) Family

wild hemp, marijuana (Cannabis sativa Cannabis indica) summer annual

Lambsquarters (Chenopodiaceae) Family

common lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) summer annual
[kochia (Kochia scoparia) annual]

Legume (Leguminosae Fabaceae) Family

[black medic (Medicago lupulina) annual, biennial, perennial]

[Sweetclover species-group:]
yellow sweet clover (Melilotus officinalis) annual, biennial, perennial
white sweet clover (Melilotus alba) annual, biennial, perennial

Loosestrife (Lythraceae) Family

Mallow (Malvaceae) Family

velvetleaf (Abutilon theophrasti) summer annual
[venice mallow (Hibiscus trionum) summer annual]

Milkweed (Asclepiadaceae) Family

common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) perennial

Mint (Labiatae) Family

Morningglory (Convolvulaceae) Family

Bindweed species-group:
field bindweed (Convolvulvus arvensis) perennial
hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium) perennial

Mustard (Cruciferae) Family

field pennycress (Thlaspi arvense) winter annual
shepard's purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris) summer annual/winter annual
wild mustard (Sinapis arvensis) winter/summer annual

Nightshade (Solanaceae) Family

jimsonweed (Datura stramonium) summer annual

The Nightshade Species-Group:
eastern black nightshade (Solanum ptycanthum) summer annual
bitter nightshade (Solanum dulcamara) summer annual

Pigweed (Amaranthaceae) Family

The Pigweed Species-Group
redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus) summer annual
smooth pigweed (Amaranthus hybridus) summer annual
Powell pigweed (Amaranthus powellii) summer annual
spiny pigweed (Amaranthus spinosus) summer annual
tumble pigweed (Amaranthus albus) summer annual
prostrate pigweed (Amaranthus blitoides) summer annual
common waterhemp (Amaranthus rudis) summer annual
tall waterhemp (Amaranthus tuberculatus) summer annual
Palmer amaranth (Amaranthus palmeri) summer annual

Plantain (Plantaginaceae) Family

Plantain species-group:
Blackseed plantain (Plantago rugelii) perennial
Broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) perennial
Buckhorn plantain (Plantago lanceolata) perennial

Purslane (Portulacaceae) Family

purslane (Portulaca oleracea) summer annual

Rose (Rosaceae) Family

[multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora) perennial shrub

Sedge (Cyperaceae) Family

Smartweed (Polygoneaceae) Family

The Polygonum Species-Group
-wild buckwheat ( Polygonum convolvulvus ) summer annual
Knotweed Species-Group

-prostrate knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) summer annual
-erect knotweed (Polygonum erectum) summer annual
Smartweed Species-Group
-Pennsylvania smartweed (Polygonum pensylvanicum) summer annual
-ladysthumb (Polygonum persicaria) summer annual
-swamp smartweed (Polygonum coccineum) perennial

Browse by Plant Type

  1. absinthe
  2. Adam and Eve orchid
  3. air yam
  4. allegheny monkeyflower
  5. alligatorweed
  6. American barberry
  7. American basswood
  8. American beautyberry
  9. American beech
  10. American black elderberry
  11. American bur-reed
  12. American cancer-root
  13. American climacium moss
  14. American climbing fern
  15. American false pennyroyal
  16. American hazelnut
  17. American plum
  18. American pokeweed
  19. American speedwell
  20. American sycamore
  21. American water-willow
  22. American white waterlily
  23. Amur honeysuckle
  24. annual bluegrass
  25. annual sowthistle
  26. annual trampweed
  27. anomodon moss
  28. apple of Peru
  29. arrowleaf sida
  30. ashy sunflower
  31. Asian ponysfoot
  32. Asiatic dayflower
  33. Asiatic tearthumb
  34. atrichum moss
  35. Australian water-clover
  36. autumn olive
  1. bahiagrass
  2. bald brome
  3. balloon plant
  4. balsampear
  5. barnyardgrass
  6. beaked panicgrass
  7. bearded beggarticks
  8. beechdrops
  9. Bermudagrass
  10. biennial beeblossom
  11. big bluestem
  12. big chickweed
  13. big cordgrass
  14. bigpod sesbania
  15. bigtop lovegrass
  16. billion-dollar grass
  17. bird's-foot trefoil
  18. bishop's weed
  19. bitter dock
  20. bitter panicgrass
  21. bitternut hickory
  22. bittersweet nightshade
  23. black bamboo
  24. black bugbane
  25. black cherry
  26. black highbush blueberry
  27. black huckleberry
  28. black locust
  29. black medic
  30. black nightshade
  31. black raspberry
  32. black-staining polypore
  33. blackberry lily
  34. blackeyed Susan
  35. blackgum
  36. blackhaw
  37. blindeyes
  38. blue huckleberry
  39. blue mistflower
  40. blue sedge
  41. blue waxweed
  42. bluejacket
  43. blunt spikerush
  44. Boston swordfern
  45. boxelder
  46. brambles
  47. Brazilian watermeal
  48. Brazilian waterweed
  49. brittle waternymph
  50. broadleaf cattail
  51. broadleaf helleborine
  52. broadleaf ironweed
  53. broadleaf pondweed
  54. broadleaf signalgrass
  55. broomsedge bluestem
  56. brown mustard
  57. browneyed Susan
  58. brownray knapweed
  59. buffalo nut
  60. buffalobur
  61. bulbous bluegrass
  62. bulbous woodrush
  63. bull thistle
  64. burcucumber
  65. burningbush
  66. bursting-heart
  67. butter and eggs
  68. butterfly weed
  69. butterweed
  1. Caley pea
  2. camphor pluchea
  3. Canada goldenrod
  4. Canada lettuce
  5. Canada thistle
  6. Canada toadflax
  7. Canadian blacksnakeroot
  8. Canadian clearweed
  9. Canadian lousewort
  10. cardoon
  11. Carolina desert-chicory
  12. Carolina elephantsfoot
  13. Carolina geranium
  14. Carolina mosquitofern
  15. Carolina ponysfoot
  16. castor aralia
  17. catclawvine
  18. catnip
  19. centipede grass
  20. chamber bitter
  21. chameleon plant
  22. cheatgrass
  23. chicory
  24. Chinaberrytree
  25. Chinese chestnut
  26. Chinese fountaingrass
  27. Chinese pear
  28. Chinese privet
  29. Chinese silvergrass
  30. Chinese sweetshrub
  31. Chinese tallow
  32. Chinese wisteria
  33. Chinese yam
  34. clammy groundcherry
  35. clammy locust
  36. climbing dayflower
  37. coastal sandbur
  38. coastal sweetpepperbush
  39. cockspur hawthorn
  40. coltsfoot
  41. common balm
  42. common barley
  43. common blue violet
  44. common bugle
  45. common burdock
  46. common buttonbush
  47. common carpetgrass
  48. common chickweed
  49. common cinquefoil
  50. common cocklebur
  51. common cowparsnip
  52. common dandelion
  53. common duckmeat
  54. common duckweed
  55. common earthball
  56. common evening primrose
  57. common groundsel
  58. common hop
  59. common liverwort
  60. common mallow
  61. common milkweed
  62. common mouse-ear chickweed
  63. common mullein
  64. common nipplewort
  65. common periwinkle
  66. common persimmon
  67. common plantain
  68. common ragweed
  69. common reed
  70. common rush
  71. common selfheal
  72. common sheep sorrel
  73. common speedwell
  74. common St. Johnswort
  75. common sweetleaf
  76. common tansy
  77. common threeseed mercury
  78. common velvetgrass
  79. common vetch
  80. common viper's bugloss
  81. common yarrow
  82. common yellow oxalis
  83. controverial weissia moss
  84. coon's tail
  85. coralberry
  86. corn chamomile
  87. corn gromwell
  88. corn speedwell
  89. corn spurry
  90. cow pea
  91. crape myrtle
  92. creeping bentgrass
  93. creeping lespedeza
  94. creeping primrose
  95. creeping strawberry bush
  96. creeping woodsorrel
  97. creeping yellowcress
  98. crosswort
  99. crowfootgrass
  100. crownvetch
  101. cucumber-tree
  102. curly dock
  103. curly pondweed
  104. curlytop knotweed
  105. cursed buttercup
  106. cutleaf evening primrose
  107. cutleaf geranium
  108. cypress spurge
  109. cypressvine
  1. dames rocket
  2. deerberry
  3. deertongue
  4. delicate thuidium moss
  5. devil in the bush
  6. devil's beggartick
  7. devil's grandmother
  8. devil's walkingstick
  9. dogfennel
  10. dotted smartweed
  11. dovefoot geranium
  12. doveweed
  13. duckweed
  1. early yellowrocket
  2. eastern baccharis
  3. eastern black nightshade
  4. eastern blue-eyed grass
  5. eastern cottonwood
  6. eastern daisy fleabane
  7. eastern gamagrass
  8. eastern poison ivy
  9. eastern redbud
  10. eastern redcedar
  11. eastern woodland sedge
  12. edible fig
  13. English ivy
  14. English yew
  15. Eurasian watermilfoil
  16. European cranberrybush
  17. European field pansy
  18. European lily of the valley
  19. eyebane
  1. fall panicgrass
  2. fall phlox
  3. false daisy
  4. fan clubmoss
  5. Fernald's yellowcress
  6. fiddle dock
  7. field bindweed
  8. field brome
  9. field horsetail
  10. field madder
  11. field mustard
  12. field pansy
  13. field pennycress
  14. field pepperweed
  15. field pumpkin
  16. field pussytoes
  17. filamentous algae
  18. fiveangled dodder
  19. floating marshpennywort
  20. floating primrose-willow
  21. flower of an hour
  22. flowering quince
  23. fox sedge
  24. foxtail barley
  25. foxtail millet
  26. fragrant flatsedge
  27. fragrant sumac
  28. frost grape
  29. Fuller's teasel
  1. gallant soldier
  2. garden asparagus
  3. garden cornflower
  4. garden lettuce
  5. garden rhubarb
  6. garden valerian
  7. garden yellowrocket
  8. garlic mustard
  9. germander speedwell
  10. giant foxtail
  11. giant goldenrod
  12. giant ironweed
  13. glossy buckthorn
  14. golden bamboo
  15. golden chain tree
  16. golden kiwi
  17. golden ragwort
  18. grass-like starwort
  19. great blue lobelia
  20. great ragweed
  21. greater bladder sedge
  22. green ash
  23. green carpetweed
  24. green field speedwell
  25. green foxtail
  26. green hawthorn
  27. greenwhite sedge
  28. ground ivy
  29. groundnut
  30. Guadeloupe cucumber
  1. hairy angelica
  2. hairy cat's ear
  3. hairy crabgrass
  4. hairy crabweed
  5. hairy fleabane
  6. hairy vetch
  7. hairyfruit sedge
  8. hairyseed paspalum
  9. hardy orange
  10. hare's ear
  11. harlequin glorybower
  12. harvestlice
  13. hazel alder
  14. heavenly bamboo
  15. hedge bindweed
  16. hedgehog woodrush
  17. hedgehyssop
  18. hedgemustard
  19. hemp dogbane
  20. henbit deadnettle
  21. hog peanut
  22. hogwort
  23. honeylocust
  24. honeyvine milkweed
  25. hophornbeam copperleaf
  26. horned pondweed
  27. horsenettle
  28. horseweed
  29. humped bladderwort
  30. hyssopleaf thoroughwort
  1. jagged chickweed
  2. Japanese barberry
  3. Japanese clover
  4. Japanese flowering cherry
  5. Japanese holly
  6. Japanese honeysuckle
  7. Japanese hop
  8. Japanese knotweed
  9. Japanese maple
  10. Japanese spindletree
  11. Japanese spirea
  12. jetbead
  13. jewelweed
  14. jimsonweed
  15. Johnsongrass
  16. jointhead arthraxon
  17. jungle rice
  1. lambsquarters
  2. lanceleaf ragweed
  3. large hopclover
  4. largebracted plantain
  5. largepod pinweed
  6. lateflowering thoroughwort
  7. lawn burweed
  8. lawn marshpennywort
  9. lawndaisy
  10. leafy pondweed
  11. lemon beebalm
  12. lesser calamint
  13. lesser swinecress
  14. little barley
  15. little bluestem
  16. little floatingheart
  17. little hogweed
  18. littleleaf buttercup
  19. littlepod false flax
  20. live oak
  21. long-stalked phyllanthus
  22. longleaf groundcherry
  23. longleaf pondweed
  24. low hopclover
  25. lyreleaf sage
  1. maidenstears
  2. man of the earth
  3. manyflower marshpennywort
  4. maroon Carolina milkvine
  5. Maryland goldenaster
  6. Maryland meadowbeauty
  7. mat amaranth
  8. matrimony vine
  9. Maule's quince
  10. mayapple
  11. mayweed chamomile
  12. meadow fescue
  13. meadow hawkweed
  14. Mexican fireplant
  15. Mexican tea
  16. mockernut hickory
  17. moleplant
  18. Morrow's honeysuckle
  19. moth mullein
  20. mountain fetterbush
  21. mountain laurel
  22. mouseear cress
  23. muck sunflower
  24. mugwort
  25. multiflora rose
  26. musk thistle
  27. muskgrass
  1. narrowleaf blue-eyed grass
  2. narrowleaf hawksbeard
  3. narrowleaf mountainmint
  4. narrowleaf pinweed
  5. narrowleaf plantain
  6. navel cornsalad
  7. needle spikerush
  8. Nepalese browntop
  9. nettleleaf noseburn
  10. nimblewill
  11. nonfilamentous algae
  12. northern bog violet
  13. northern catalpa
  14. northern dewberry
  15. northern jointvetch
  16. northern red oak
  17. Norwegian cinquefoil
  18. nutgrass
  1. Palmer amaranth
  2. palmleaf morningglory
  3. panicledleaf ticktrefoil
  4. paper mulberry
  5. parrot feather watermilfoil
  6. parsley-piert
  7. pasture spikesedge
  8. pawpaw
  9. Pennsylvania smartweed
  10. peppermint
  11. perennial pea
  12. perennial ryegrass
  13. perennial sowthistle
  14. perplexed ticktrefoil
  15. Persian speedwell
  16. petty spurge
  17. Philadelphia fleabane
  18. piedmont bedstraw
  19. pignut hickory
  20. pink woodsorrel
  21. plantain-leaved pussytoes
  22. plume poppy
  23. poison hemlock
  24. pomegranate
  25. poorjoe
  26. poorland flatsedge
  27. poverty brome
  28. poverty dropseed
  29. poverty oatgrass
  30. poverty rush
  31. povertyweed
  32. Powell's amaranth
  33. prairie broomweed
  34. prairie fleabane
  35. prairie tea
  36. prickly lettuce
  37. prickly sida
  38. princesstree
  39. prostrate knotweed
  40. prostrate pigweed
  41. purple ammannia
  42. purple deadnettle
  43. purple loosestrife
  44. purple passionflower
  45. purpletop
  1. rabbit-tobacco
  2. rabbitfoot clover
  3. ram's horn
  4. ramtilla
  5. rape
  6. rare clubmoss
  7. rattail fescue
  8. red clover
  9. red fescue
  10. red maple
  11. red mulberry
  12. red sandspurry
  13. red stemmed parrots feather
  14. reddening lepiota
  15. redroot amaranth
  16. redstar
  17. redstem stork's bill
  18. redtop
  19. reed canarygrass
  20. rescuegrass
  21. rice button aster
  22. rice cutgrass
  23. roadside pennycress
  24. rough bluegrass
  25. roughfruit amaranth
  26. roundleaf greenbriar
  27. rugosa rose
  28. rusty blackhaw
  1. saltgrass
  2. saltmeadow cordgrass
  3. sassafras
  4. saucer magnolia
  5. sawtooth blackberry
  6. sawtooth oak
  7. scarlet pimpernel
  8. Scotch broom
  9. seaside arrowgrass
  10. sensitive fern
  11. sensitive partridge pea
  12. sentless false mayweed
  13. sericea lespedeza
  14. shaggy soldier
  15. shallow sedge
  16. sharpleaf cancerwort
  17. shaved sedge
  18. shepherd's purse
  19. shining bedstraw
  20. shortleaf spikesedge
  21. showy rattlebox
  22. Siberian ligularia
  23. sicklepod
  24. silktree
  25. silky dogwood
  26. silver hairgrass
  27. silverleaf nightshade
  28. silvery everlasting
  29. silvery threadmoss
  30. sleepydick
  31. slender amaranth
  32. slender parsley piert
  33. slimleaf panicgrass
  34. small geranium
  35. small hopclover
  36. small pondweed
  37. smallflower buttercup
  38. smallflower morningglory
  39. smallspike false nettle
  40. smooth aster
  41. smooth bedstraw
  42. smooth brome
  43. smooth cordgrass
  44. smooth crabgrass
  45. smooth hawksbeard
  46. smooth pigweed
  47. smooth rattlebox
  48. smooth sumac
  49. smut grass
  50. sneezeweed
  51. soapwort
  52. soft brome
  53. sourwood
  54. southern crabgrass
  55. southern waternymph
  56. soybean
  57. Spanish needles
  58. spiny amaranth
  59. spiny plumeless thistle
  60. spiny sowthistle
  61. spoonleaf purple everlasting
  62. spotted knapweed
  63. spotted ladysthumb
  64. spotted sandmat
  65. spotted St. Johnswort
  66. spotted water hemlock
  67. spring avens
  68. spring draba
  69. spurred anoda
  70. squarestem spikerush
  71. squirrel corn
  72. St. Andrew's cross
  73. St. Anthony's turnip
  74. St. augustinegrass
  75. starch grape hyacinth
  76. stickbush
  77. stickweed
  78. sticky chickweed
  79. sticky ragwort
  80. stickywilly
  81. stiff dogwood
  82. stinging nettle
  83. stink grass
  84. strawcolored flatsedge
  85. strict blue-eyed grass
  86. stringy stonecrop
  87. striped prince's pine
  88. strong quillwort
  89. sugar maple
  90. sugarcane plumegrass
  91. sulphur cinquefoil
  92. sun spurge
  93. swamp bay
  94. swamp smartweed
  95. swamp tupelo
  96. swamp verbena
  97. sweet autumn virginsbower
  98. sweet bay
  99. sweet clover
  100. sweet fennel
  101. sweet sagewort
  102. sweet vernalgrass
  103. sweet woodreed
  104. sweetflag
  105. sweetgum
  106. sweetscented bedstraw
  107. switchgrass
  1. tall fescue
  2. tall globethistle
  3. tall morning-glory
  4. tall oatgrass
  5. tapered rosette grass
  6. tapertip cupgrass
  7. Tatarian honeysuckle
  8. Texas panicum
  9. thin paspalum
  10. threadstalk speedwell
  11. throughwort pennycress
  12. Thunbergs meadowsweet
  13. thymeleaf speedwell
  14. timothy
  15. toothed plagiomnium moss
  16. toothed spurge
  17. trailing pearlwort
  18. tree-of-a-thousand-stars
  19. tree-of-heaven
  20. trumpet creeper
  21. trumpetweed
  22. tufted lovegrass
  23. tuliptree
  24. tumble windmill grass
  25. twoheaded water-starwort
  26. twoleaf watermilfoil
  27. tyrol knapweed
  1. Vasey's grass
  2. velvet panicum
  3. velvetleaf
  4. vente conmigo
  5. violet orychophragmus
  6. Virginia buttonweed
  7. Virginia creeper
  8. Virginia glasswort
  9. Virginia mountainmint
  10. Virginia pepperweed
  11. Virginia strawberry
  12. Virginia sweetspire
  13. Virginia threeseed mercury
  1. watercress
  2. watershield
  3. waterthread pondweed
  4. waterthyme
  5. wax myrtle
  6. weakstalk bulrush
  7. weeping lovegrass
  8. western brackenfern
  9. western marsh cudweed
  10. western panicgrass
  11. western salsify
  12. white ash
  13. white clover
  14. white heath aster
  15. white mulberry
  16. white panicle aster
  17. white snakeroot
  18. white vervain
  19. whitegrass
  20. whitesnow
  21. whitetinge sedge
  22. whorled yellow loosestrife
  23. widgeongrass
  24. wild basil
  25. wild blue phlox
  26. wild buckwheat
  27. wild four-o'clock
  28. wild garlic
  29. wild grapes
  30. wild mustard
  31. wild oat
  32. wild parsnip
  33. wild sarsaparilla
  34. wine raspberry
  35. winged sumac
  36. wingstem
  37. winter-flowering cherry
  38. wintergreen barberry
  39. witchgrass
  40. woodland bittercress
  41. woodland lettuce
  42. woodlily
  43. woolgrass
  44. woolly burdock

Weed identification

Find photos and identifying characteristics that’ll help you identify common Minnesota weeds.

Types of weeds

Find photos and identifying characteristics that’ll help you identify common Minnesota weeds.

  • Barnyardgrass.
  • Large crabgrass.
  • Green, giant and yellow foxtail.
  • Wild oat.
  • Fall panicum.
  • Wild proso millet.
  • Amaranth family: Waterhemp, Palmer amaranth and redroot pigweed.
  • Giant and common ragweed.
  • Common cocklebur.
  • Common lambsquarters.
  • Velvetleaf and more.
  • Jerusalem artichoke
  • Field and hedge bindweeds
  • Yellow nutsedge
  • Quackgrass
  • Canada thistle and perennial sowthistle.
  • A step-by-step key to identify seedlings using plant characteristics.
  • Includes both broadleaf and grass seedlings.

Weed image search tool: From the Strand Memorial Herbarium.

Minnesota Crop News

Palmer Amaranth Identification and Biology

Palmer amaranth (paam) arrived in North Dakota in 2018 (five counties) and poses a major threat to our agricultural land in 2019 and beyond. Paam has recently been declared a ND State Noxious Weed. By law and for crop production, the weed must be controlled. It is highly recommended to have zero tolerance for paam = eradication.

The first step in weed management is plant identification. Some basics for identifying paam plants include no hairs on stems or leaf petioles, petiole length similar to and generally longer than leaf length, female plants have spiny bracts (paam is dioecious = a plant has either female or male flower parts, not both), and one primary seed head present ranging from 1- to 4-feet in length. Pigweed species in the coytyledon through at least 2-true leaf stage are very difficult to distinguish. However, by the 4- to 6-leaf stage, if hairs are observed on the upper part of a plant, the pigweed is not paam or waterhemp (likely redroot pigweed or Powell amaranth). If the pigweed plant does not have hairs and at about 4-inch height or taller, leaf petioles (oldest leaves) should be longer than leaf length, indicating paam versus waterhemp. Also, waterhemp leaves typically are narrow, twice as long as wide, and normally are shiny in appearance. Additional paam identification tips can be found at the following website: Also, the Carrington Research Extension Center has live seedlings and mature dried plant displays of paam, which are available for examination.

Pigweed plant mounts, paam second to left.

Some notes on paam biology (main source: Joe Ikley, NDSU Extension weed specialist) to help describe characteristics of this formidable enemy:

    Native to southwest desert area of U.S. Thus, can readily tolerate drouth and high temperatures (>100 degrees F).

Paam seedling.

13 Common Lawn and Garden Weeds

Below are the top-ranked lawn and garden weeds. However, we’ve broken out the “noxious weeds.” These are weeds that are prohibited or controlled by law on a federal or state level. Noxious weeds are highly destructive and difficult to control by ordinary cultural practices.

We have divided this list of weeds into two sections: 1) Noxious and 2) Other common weeds that compete with vegetables, fruits, and crops but may have their own beneficial uses.

Noxious Weeds:

The noxious weeds (on federal and/or state level) on this list include field bindweed, quackgrass, Canada thistle, yellow nutsedge, and buckhorn plantain. There are other noxious weeds that aren’t on this list that are also problematic, such as Johnsongrass.

1. Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)

Field bindweed is a hardy perennial vine that has been given many names, including perennial or wild morning-glory, creeping jenny, sheepbine, cornbind, and bellbine.

Bindweed is NOT the same as the ornamental annual morning-glory (in the genus Ipomea) which has a larger (2-inch wide) and more showy flower that can be white to blue or purple it also has a thicker stem that is sometimes hairy and heart-shaped leaves that are 1 ½ inches wide and 2 inches or more long. The two species are easy to distinguish from each other.

An invasive from Eurasia, field bindweed is one of the most persistent and difficult to control weeds. It spreads from an extensive rootstock and from seed. And its roots are found to depths of 14 feet! Lateral roots becoming a secondary vertical root. A single field bindweed plant can spread radially more than 10 feet in a growing season. This extensive underground network allows for overwintering without foliage, and it can persist for many years in the soil.

Bindweed sprouts in late spring and can be seen throughout the summer. Though the plant’s flowers are attractive, field bindweed can become a big problem in warm weather, when they spread ruthlessly.

Image: Bindweed seedling

How to Control Bindweed

Unfortunately, tilling and cultivation seems to aide bindweed spread. Fragments of vertical roots and rhizomes as short as 2 inches can form new plants! Field bindweed also is very drought tolerant and once established is difficult to control even with herbicides.

The best control is, as with most weeds, is prevention or early intervention. Seedlings of field bindweed must be removed before they become perennial plants. However, this need to be done when they’re young—about 3 to 4 weeks after germination. After that, perennial buds are formed, and successful control is much more difficult.

Bindweed can grow through many mulches so you need to use landscape fabrics such as polypropylene and polyester or mulches such as black plastic or cardboard but also ensure that the edges of the covering overlap so that the bindweed stems can’t find their way into the light. If holes are made in the fabric or plastic for plants, bindweed will grow through these holes. A landscape fabric placed over soil then covered with bark or other plant-derived product (e.g., organic matter) or rock will likely keep field bindweed from emerging. It might take more than 3 years of light exclusion before the bindweed dies. Once landscape fabric or other mulch is removed, new bindweed plants might germinate from seed in the soil be sure to monitor the site for new seedlings.

Is Bindweed Edible?

No. All parts of the bindweed plant are poisonous. Do not ingest.

2. Quackgrass (Elytrigia repens)

Photo: Quackgrass in strawberry garden.

Quackgrass is a creeping, persistent perennial grass that reproduces by seeds. Its long, jointed, straw-colored rhizomes form a heavy mat in soil, from which new shoots may also appear.

How to Control Quackgrass

Try to dig out this fast-growing grass as soon as you see it in your garden, being sure to dig up the entirety of the plant (including the roots). Dispose of in your waste bin rather than the compost pile, as it will likely continue to grow in the latter!

Is Quackgrass Edible?

3. Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)

Canada thistle is an aggressive, creeping perennial weed from Eurasia (despite its name). It infests crops, pastures, and non-crop areas like ditch banks and roadside. Canada thistle reduces forage consumption in pastures and rangeland because cattle typically will not graze near infestations.

This weed reproduces by seed and whitish, creeping rootstocks which send up new shoots every 8 to 12 inches. Plants 2 to 4 feet tall, It is a colony-forming weed, reproducing asexually from rhizomatous roots (any part of the root system may give rise to new plants) or sexually from wind-blown seed. The plant emerges from its roots in mid- to late spring and forms rosettes.

Then, it will send up shoots every 8 to 12 inches. The plants will grow 2 to 4 feet tall. You may spots its purple flowers are produced in July and August.

How to Control Canada Thistle

Canada thistle is difficult to control because its extensive and deep root system allows it to recover from control attempts. Horizontal roots may extend 15 feet or more and vertical roots may grow 6 to 15 feet deep! Seeds may retain viability 4+ years in the soil.

The first plants need to be destroyed by pulling or hoeing before they become securely rooted. Look for Canada thistle above ground in early spring.

If Canada thistle becomes rooted, the best control is to stress the plant and force it to use stored root nutrients. It’s at its weakest during the flowering stage in summertime this is a good time to begin cultivation and destroy the roots and rootstock. One season of cultivation followed by a season of growing competitive crops such as winter rye, will go a long way toward eradication.

An approved herbicide, applied for two years in an established in a thistle-infested area, is an effective control. Usually, a combination of techniques is needed. Consult with your cooperative extension office for an approved herbicide and suggested program.

Is Canada Thistle Edible?

Believe it or not, Canada thistle is in fact edible—with some preparation required, of course. After the spines are meticulously removed, the leaves can be prepared like spinach. The stems are the most prized part, though their bristled outsides must be peeled first. Be sure to wear gloves!

4. Nutsedge (Cyperus spp.)

Nutsedges are perennial weeds that superficially resemble grasses, but they are thicker and stiffer and V-shaped. Their leaves are arranged in sets of three from their base instead of sets of two as you would find in grass leaves. They are among the most problematic weeds for vegetable crops and can greatly reduce harvest yields. Yellow nutsedge has light brown flowers and seeds, while purple nutsedge flowers have a reddish tinge and the seeds are dark brown or black.

How to Control Nutsedge

If you have nutsedge, it’s often an indicated that your soil drainage is poor or waterlogged. However, once nutsedge is established, it’s very difficult to control.

The best approach is to prevent establishment of the weed in the first place.

Remove small plants before they develop tubers. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit production of tubers, you’ll eventually control the nutsedge itself. Most herbicides aren’t effective against tubers.

Also, eliminate the wet conditions that favor nutsedge growth. Use mulches in landscape beds. Landscape fabrics are the best mulch because the sharp leaves of nutsedge can pierce other mulches.

Is Nutsedge Edible?

Dating back to ancient Egypt, yellow nutsedge has historically been harvested for its tubers, which have a sweet, nutty flavor. Purple nutsedge tubers are also edible, but have a less pleasant, bitter taste.

5. Buckhorn Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

(Also called buck plantain, English plantain, narrow-leaved plantain)

Buckhorn plantain is a common perennial weed more common in pastures, meadows, and lawns. This narrow-leafed weed reproduces and spreads by seeds.

Buckhorn Plantain. Photo by Oregon State University.

How to Control Buckhorn Plantain

Buckhorn plantain is low-growing which makes it difficult to remove by hand. This plant has a long taproot so it can become drought-tolerant and difficult to control.

So, to remove this weed, be diligent about pulling up young plants and destroying it before the plants go to seed. Learn how to scout and recognize young plants to help prevent early introductions from becoming persistent problems.

The best control is also preventative: grow a lush stand so the surface of the soil is shaded and prevents new seeds from getting established.

As a last resort, several herbicides are effective on buckhorn plantain. The best time to spray is in the fall (late October to early December). Speak to your local cooperative for approved products

Is Buckhorn Plantain Edible?

Yes, this weed is edible, especially when the leaves are young and tender. Enjoy it raw, steamed, boiled, or sauteed.

Troublesome Weeds

The following weeds—though not considered noxious—can still present a problem when they show up unwanted in gardens. However, weeds like lambsquarters or dandelions may actually be sought after for their nutritional content or benefit to pollinators, respectively.

6. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Purslane is actually considered noxious in at least one U.S. state. However, this is not a widespread categorization. So, why is purslane, an edible succulent plant, considered so troublesome?

The answer goes back to the definition of weeds: Purslane can produce over 2,000,000 seeds PER PLANT ! Purslane also can reproduce vegetatively through its leaves, making it especially tough to eradicate. Many a gardener hoed purslane one day only to see it growing at full strength the next.

Purslane is an annual, succulent-like weed that reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem fragments. This weed appears in late spring or early summer and likes warm weather, fertile soil and moist garden beds.

How to Control Purslane

The primary method of management for common purslane is prevention. In home landscapes and gardens, this weed is generally managed by hand-weeding. Pull out this weed as soon as you see it and destroy the plant this weed can live in your soil for years!

Mulching is also helpful, especially in garden beds. To be effective, organic mulches should be at least 3 inches thick. Synthetic mulches (plastic or fabric mulch) which screen out light and provide a physical barrier to seedling development, also work well. Fabric mulches, which are porous and allow flow of water and air to roots, are preferred over plastics. Combinations of synthetic mulches with organic or rock mulches on top are commonly used in ornamental plantings.

Is Purslane Edible?

Young purslane is edible! It’s a nutritional powerhouse and a great addition to a salad or stir-fry. See purslane’s health benefits and find a recipe here.

7. Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.)

Crabgrass is a low-growing, summer annual that spreads by seed and from rootings of nodes that lie on the soil. Unmowed, it can grow to 2 feet tall.

Crabgrass. Photo by R. Dyer,

This weed appears from mid-spring through summer when the ground is warm. It grows well under dry, hot conditions.

As an annual, crabgrass dies at the end of each growing season, usually at the first frost in the fall, and it must produce new seeds every year.

How to Control Crabgrass

Fortunately, crabgrass is fairly easy to manage. Controlling crabgrass before it sets seed is important, because the seeds can remain viable for at least 3 years in soil.

In the lawn, mowing regularly is often all you need to prevent them from flowering and producing seed. Most experts recommend that you mow your lawn to a height of 2 to 4 inches and that you mow frequently enough to keep it within that range.

Also, if you keep a lawn, be sure to select grass adapted to your location so it’s a healthy, thick lawn. Because seedling crabgrass isn’t very competitive, a vigorously growing turf will crowd out new seedlings. Perennial ryegrass is the best competition for crabgrass. It also provides some insect control, as it emits a natural poison that gives some small, damaging bugs the “flu.” Fertilizing is key and must be done in the spring and in the fall. Crabgrass thrives in compacted lawns, so aeration can help. A mixture of 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide, diluted to 3 percent, per 100 square feet of lawn can help eradicate the pesky plant.

In gardens, you easily can control crabgrass by mulching, hoeing, and hand pulling when the plants are young and before they set seed. You also can control this weed with solarization. Several chemical herbicides are available but often aren’t necessary. Mulching with wood products (e.g. wood chips or nuggets), composted yard waste, or synthetic landscape fabrics covered with mulch will reduce crabgrass in shrub beds and bedding plants and around trees by blocking sunlight needed for its germination, establishment, and growth.

Organic mulches that have been on the soil for a while decomposing can provide an adequate growth medium for weeds to germinate and grow in. If crabgrass is germinating in the mulch, move it about with a rake to reduce seedling establishment. Hand pull escaped crabgrass plants before they set seed

If you’re using herbicides, apply pre-emergent herbicides before crabgrass germinates or post-emergent herbicides after it germinates. Avoid using chemical herbicides in vegetable gardens because of the variety of crops grown and planted there.

Is Crabgrass Edible?

Sure, but grasses are generally not the tastiest weeds out there! That said, crabgrass can be used as a forage crop for livestock and its seeds have historically been harvested as an edible grain.

8. Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album)

According to the Weed Science Society of America ( WSSA ), lambsquarters ranks as one of the most common weeds in North American gardens.

Lambsquarters. Photo by Michigan State University.

Common lambsquarters is a summer annual broadleaf weed that is widely distributed across the northern half of the United States and southern Canada. Thanks to its widespread distribution, it’s no surprise that lambsquarters is often a problem in gardens with sugar beets, vegetable crops, and pulse crops such as dry edible beans, lentils, and chickpeas.

Lambsquarters is a very fast-growing annual with seeds that are small and light enough to be blown by the wind over short distances and can sometimes survive for decades in the soil. Under favorable conditions, these weeds can establish themselves quickly and spread profusely.

How to Control Lambsquarters

This summertime weed rapidly removes moisture from soil, so remove it from unwanted areas as soon as possible!

Cultivate lambsquarters out of your garden using a sharp hoe.

Is Lambsquarters Edible?

Yes, you can eat lambsquarters (assuming you’re not using chemicals in your garden). In fact, their leaves are quite high in beneficial nutrients! The young shoots and leaves can be eaten raw in any vegetable dish, or sauteed or steamed like spinach. See our natural health blogger’s post on Anytime Salad.

9. Pigweed (Amaranthus spp.)

Pigweed wins the title of most “problematic” annual weed. It has evolved traits that makes it a tough competitor, especially in broadleaf crops like soybeans and cotton.

Image: Pigweed. Credit: United Soybean Board.

An annual weed that reproduces by seeds, pigweed is characterized by its fleshly, red taproot. This weed appears in late spring or early summer and likes warm weather.

How to Control Pigweed

Try to pull out this weed before it flowers!

Some weed seeds require light for germination and pigweed is one of those. To prevent pigweed in the future, cover your garden plot with a winter mulch.

Also, till very shallowly in the spring only turn up a small amount of soil to keep those seeds buried. When you till you may bring up some pigweed seed so it’s best to mulch again. Cover the soil with five layers of wet newspaper and cover that with 3-6 inches of mulch.

Is Pigweed Edible?

Pigweed is also edible —though usually only when young and tender, and when taken from a pesticide-free area. In June, the young leaves of Amaranthus blitum or amaranth are abundant and should be eaten because of their high nutritional content. Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like carrots and beets and can be delicious in a tossed salad. You can also cook them as you would spinach. Native Americans used the black seeds of this plant as a ground meal for baking.

10. Chickweed (Stellaria sp. & Cerastium spp.)

Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a winter annual that grows in well-watered areas. It’s a reservoir for insect pests and plant viruses.

Photo credit:

When growing without competition from other plants, common chickweed can produce approximately 800 seeds and it takes 7 to 8 years to eradicate. Chickseed thrives in moist, cool areas so it often gets started before spring crops can become competitive and can limit vegetable harvest.

Common chickweed is often forms a dense mats and rarely grows higher than 2 inches. The flowers are small with five white petals. Common chickweed will grow in a wide range of soils but does particularly well in neutral pH soils with high nitrogen and poorly in low pH or acid soils.

How to Control Chickweed

Fortunately, annual chickweed is easier to control as long as you pull the weed when the plant is small and before it flowers. The challenge can be locating it during the short period between germination and flower production, so be sure to monitor closely and completely remove the weed so it doesn’t reroot.

Remember this is a “winter annual.” So, monitor the soil surface for chickweed seedlings throughout late fall and winter and then remove them by shallow cultivation or by hand pulling.

Using an organic mulch such as wood chips, at least two inches deep, will reduce the amount of weed seeds germinating by limiting light and serving as a physical barrier. Synthetic mulches such as landscape fabrics may also be used. In landscaped areas, they should be covered with an additional layer of mulch (rock or bark). Vegetable gardens also can utilize black plastic, both as mulch into which seeds or transplants are placed and also between rows.

By spring time, we would not recommend chemical controls for this witner annual in the garden. In late fall, consider preemergent herbicides as a last resort.

Is Chickweed Edible?

Chickweed is edible. When young, the leaves, stems, and flowers can all be eaten either raw or cooked. It adds a delicate spinach-like taste to any dish.

11. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Ah, we love much about dandelions with their bright yellow heads in the springtime. They provide an important source of food for bees early in the year, too.

If you don’t mind giving your lawn over to dandelions, that’s fine. However, you may wish to consider investing in a lawn. In time, dandelions will also take over any habitat from your garden to your ornamentals to your grasses. They have the most weedy characteristics of all the weeds. Not only do dandelions have wind-borne seed but also reproduce vegetatively thanks to large tap roots. So unless you cut the root deep into the soil, you can rest assured the plant will reemerge.

How to Control Dandelions

Removing dandelions by hand-pulling or hoeing is often futile, unless done repeatedly over a long period of time, because of the deep tap root system of established plants. But if you have a small area, pull young dandelions by grasping them firmly by their base and wiggling gently, as you must dislodge their deep taproot from the soil. Alternatively, use a hand trowel to dig them out. Try to remove the whole dandelion root at once, as any piece left in the ground will probably grow back.

If you keep a lawn, a vigorous (and competitive) lawn will slow down dandelion infestation. Dense turfgrass and ornamentals shade the soil surface, reducing the establishment of new dandelion seedlings. Many broadleaf weeds may be controlled with mowing but this is NOT true of dandelion. Because it grows from a basal rosette that is lower than a mower blade can reach, mowing will have no effect on control.

For a garden bed, mulches of wood chips or bark are effective if they are maintained at a depth of least 3 inches deep (and replaced over time). Mulching with landscape fabrics can be particularly effective for controlling seedlings, reducing the amount of light that is able to reach the soil. Use a polypropylene or polyester fabric or black polyethylene (plastic tarp) to block all plant growth.

Solitary new dandelion plants along fence rows, roadsides, flower beds, and in turfgrass should be grubbed out (removed by digging out the entire plant, taproot and all) before they produce seed. Dandelion knives and similar specialized tools are available for removing individual weeds and their roots while minimizing soil disturbance. Monitor the area for several months to make sure that removal of the taproot was complete.

If you’re using herbicides, consider pre-emergence herbicides such as those containing dithiopyr or isoxaben because they are applied to the soil BEFORE the seeds germinate.

Are Dandelions Edible?

Yes! The jagged leaves of this perennial are edible, especially when young and tender. The flowers, too, can be eaten raw or fried, or used to make dandelion wine. Here are a few dandelion recipes to try: Dandelion Recipes. That being said, keep in mind that dandelions are an important source of food for bees in early spring, so you should only harvest a small amount and leave plenty for the pollinators!

12. Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)

Shepherd’s purse is actually a Brassicacae and part of the Mustard family along with cabbage. This flowering annual produces heart-shaped seedpods after flowering. It likes cool weather and its yellowish-brown seeds are long-lived in the ground.

Shepherd’s Purse. Photo by Oregon State University.

How to Control Shepherd’s Purse

Keep an eye out for its distinct leaves and pull out this annual weed by hand before it seeds. Be sure to remove the entire root.

Is Shepherd’s Purse Edible?

The immature heart-shaped seedpods of shepherd’s purse have a peppery taste and can be used as garnish in moderation. Other parts of the plant, like the leaves and mature seeds, may cause indigestion and should not be consumed.

13. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea)

Creeping Charlie (ground ivy) and also wild violet are common in shady lawns. Native to Europe, it has become an invasive lawn weed in North America. The plant has bright green leaves with scalloped edges on creeping stems that root at the nodes. It tends to form a dense mat over the ground.

The reason Creeping Charlie is so challenging is the way it spreads—by both seeds and by creeping stems (called stolons) that grow along the ground. If you try to dig it out and leave behind a fragment of rhizome (root), even a tiny piece can grow up as a new plant!

How to Control Creeping Charlie

  • Improve turf density by seeding grasses in shady areas which will help to limit this weed from spreading.
  • Also, make sure to grow the most suitable type of turfgrass for the location (e.g., plant shade tolerant turfgrass varieties under trees).
  • Improve soil drainage or water less frequently to dry the soil.
  • Mow regularly (to a height of two to three and one-half inches), fertilizing and watering appropriately, and overseeding in the fall.

Alternatively, consider removing grass and growing shade-loving plants such as vinca, English ivy, pachysandra, or hosta that compete well with weeds (though they can also become weeds themselves, so plant at your own risk!). In areas where Creeping Charlie has become established, try removing plants by hand. This is the control method of choice in vegetable or flower gardens. Try to pull the weed without breaking it and over time it may give up.

However, this may not be a viable option in heavily infested areas, as the extensive spreading stems of creeping Charlie can be difficult to completely remove. If you have mats of weed, smother with newspaper or tarp. Once plants are pulled, make sure to dispose of the plants in such a way that they cannot re-root. Common herbicides do not work. Consult your local garden center or cooperative extension for herbicides with triclopyr as a last resort.

Is Creeping Charlie Edible?

Prior to the mass cultivation of hops, Creeping Charlie was historically used in the brewing process of beer. As a member of the mint family, it has a slightly minty flavor and is often used by medical herbalists.

Learn More About Weeds

To learn more about combating common garden weeds, see Weed Control Techniques, as well as our mulching guide.

Free Online Gardening Guides

We’ve gathered all of our best beginner gardening guides into a step-by-step series designed to help you learn how to garden! Visit our complete Gardening for Everyone hub, where you’ll find a series of guides—all free! From selecting the right gardening spot to choosing the best vegetables to grow, our Almanac gardening experts are excited to teach gardening to everyone—whether it’s your 1st or 40th garden.

View the video with Spanish, Mandarin, or Hindi subtitles.

Do You Want to Improve the Sustainability of Food systems, Food Security, and Natural Resource Management?

Join our degree program in Agricultural Biology and acquire firsthand experience working with world-class faculty and learning how to help solve the most difficult problems we face today in food production and environmental conservation. You will gain hands-on experience studying plants, microbes, insects, and weeds that threaten the safety and sustainability of our food supply. You will learn how ecosystems function and how to protect them. You will share this experience with a cohort of students who will become your teammates in strengthening the ecosystems that we all depend on for food, fiber, and ecosystem services. Together, you will become prepared to identify applications and put in practice the knowledge gained to solve today’s biggest challenges. We look forward to having you join us!

What Do Agricultural Biologists Do?

Agricultural biologists enhance and protect ecosystems required for food production and environmental sustainability. They have numerous career options to pursue. Many work on farms or rangeland, or in state and national parks to reduce damage caused by insects, weeds, and plant diseases. Some agricultural biologists work in laboratories doing diverse work to help solve some of todays most important agricultural issues. They may work in food production and trade, where they help maintain a safe food supply and inform policy makers. Agricultural biologists also work in outreach education to help people learn about plants, insects, and microbes. Some agricultural biologists start their own companies, others may work for start-up businesses or for large global firms. They may also work in government or in education and research. Some go to graduate school, where they study entomology, plant pathology, food science, or plant biology and breeding, among others.

Agricultural biologists are necessary members of teams that work to solve complex and important problems. No matter where they work, agricultural biologists make valuable contributions towards food and ecosystem sustainability. To prepare you to meet these challenges, this degree program will help you develop skills that top employers want, such as communication, teamwork, and leadership.

How Can You Become an Agricultural Biology Student?

If you are inquisitive about biology and have a desire to help make the world a better place, you are already on your way to becoming an agricultural biologist. In high school, be curious and focus on academic courses that emphasize communication, science, social studies, and mathematics to help you learn about the world around you. In school and in your extracurricular activities, learn to work well with diverse teams of people who are working to accomplish common goals, whether it be in science, sports, theater, or music. Develop good study habits, strong time management skills, and a sense of equity so that you can accomplish your own goals while also helping others on your team and in your community reach their goals.

As an Agricultural Biology Student, You will:

  • Integrate skills and knowledge to solve problems related to plants, insects, and microbes in natural and managed ecosystems
  • Demonstrate understanding of social, economic, and biophysical aspects of the management of biological problems in natural and managed ecosystems
  • Describe, assess, analyze, and synthesize knowledge from across the curriculum to create solutions for pests and beneficial species in natural and managed ecosystems
  • Promote and practice inclusion to form effective teams that solve complex problems in natural and managed ecosystems
  • Communicate effectively with diverse audiences regarding sustainable pest and pathogen management in natural and managed ecosystems

For more information, contact Chris Amerman, Academic Success Coordinator for the Agricultural Biology Undergraduate Major.

And Around the Midwest

Extension Publications - Comprehensive list of North Central Weed Science Extension Publications at the click of a mouse

For more information on herbicide resistant weeds visit the Weed Science website. This website provides information on resistant weeds around the world.

Welcome to the University of Illinois Weed Science web page. This site is designed to provide information related to weed biology and management in agronomic systems. Weed science personnel at the University of Illinois are located in the Departments of Crop Sciences, Natural Resources and Environmental Sciences, and the USDA Agricultural Research Service. We hope you find the information provided at this site beneficial. If you have comments or questions about this web page, please contact us.

Aquatic and Riparian Weeds of the West This is practical guide to the identification and biology of submerged, floating leaved, and emergent aquatic weeds in the Western United States. The book contains a full description of 89 species representing 36 plant families…

Ecology of Weeds and Invasive Plants: Relationship to Agriculture and Natural Resource Management, 3rd Edition The Third Edition of the authoritative reference gives readers an in-depth understanding of how weeds and invasive plants develop and interact in the environment so they can manage and control…